The following photos give an overview of how the standard Stavebolt device is installed in the ends of typical 8" x 8" posts and beams. Although some installers have fitted the Stavebolt with freehand drilling and/or with wooden guide blocks, the photos show the use of a jig designed to facilitate the drilling of both the end grain and cross grain holes. For more specific details on the complete layout and installation process, be sure to read the INSTALLATION MANUAL, a copy of which is provided with each sale of the product.

1. Photo of Two Models:
   Stavebolts come in two basic diameters which require the drilling of either a 1.5" or a 2" hole for the insertion of the fastener in the receiving unit, followed by the drilling of the intersecting stitch bolt holes.



2. Preparing to Drill:
   Once the housing and stitch bolt centre lines have been marked, adjust the jig using the alignment notches, and clamp it in place. If working round log stock, screw and shim a level section of 2 x 8 planking in place as a base for the jig. Note the brass guide and the 2" end-grain auger. Also shown is a smaller guide for the tension bolt hole to be drilled in the abutting member.



3. Setting Up the Jig:
   This 4 pin jig comes with 4 thumb screws to allow small adjustments for uneven or out of square timbers, without having to add shims. Note the centre line notches to simplify positioning. The first and third vertical guides only are required for insertion of the standard two pin model. The other guides are utilized for 3 and 4 pin installations only when rotated 90 degrees.



4. Drilling hole for the Stavebolt:
   If the auger is sharp, the end-grain drilling operation is simple. This hole is normally drilled to a depth of 12" to house the 11" long (standard) connector. Keep augers clean and sharp for best results. If installing in slope-cut members, the Stavebolt may need to be installed at a greater depth.



5. Drilling holes for Stitch Bolts:
   Using a smaller brad point drill or ships auger, use the jig to drill the required stitch bolt holes through the cavity produced by the larger auger and on through the timber. If 3 or 4 stitchers are required, the jig needs to be rotated 90 degrees to the side of the timber for the drilling of these holes. Shown here is one of our older jigs used for early 2 pin models.





6. Fitting of the Stavebolt:
   Once drilling and hole cleaning is finished, the fastener may be locked into place by running the stitch bolts through the connector and applying the nut and washer hardware. If drilling misalignment causes installation difficulty, use a hollow form file or large wood rasp to better align the stitch bolt holes.



7. Shear pin and tension bolt holes:
   Note the 9/16" shear pin holes on either side of the Stavebolt centres. If half inch shear pins are to be added on either side of the standard (2") Stavebolt to improve shear performance or to prevent post rotation at the connection with, for example, the abutting wall plate, use the separate guides on the vertical slider plate of the jig to drill these 9/16" holes. Then remove the slider plate from the jig and use the same guide to drill the holes in the abutting member.



8. Post or beam-end with Other Hardware:
   If other hardware, such as 4" split rings (shown here) or shear plates, etc, are to be added to surround the Stavebolt, the standard 13/16" pilot hole for their grooving or dapping tools should be drilled before the 2" Stavebolt hole is attempted. The Installation Manual should be reviewed in detail before any Stavebolt installation work is undertaken. If any of the information is not clear or raises additional questions, please contact the Company for clarification